Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Fruit in Urban Spaces

Each quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel train pulls into a spray-painted station. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm cuts through the near-constant road noise. Commuters rush by collapsing, ivy-covered fencing panels as storm clouds form.

It is perhaps the least likely spot you anticipate to find a perfectly formed grape-growing plot. But James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated four dozen established plants sagging with plump mauve berries on a sprawling garden plot situated between a line of historic homes and a local rail line just north of the city town centre.

"I've seen individuals hiding heroin or other items in those bushes," states Bayliss-Smith. "But you simply continue ... and keep tending to your grapevines."

Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a filmmaker who runs a kombucha drinks business, is not the only local vintner. He has organized a loose collective of growers who produce vintage from four discreet city grape gardens tucked away in back gardens and allotments across the city. The project is too clandestine to possess an formal title so far, but the collective's WhatsApp group is called Grape Expectations.

Urban Vineyards Across the World

To date, the grower's allotment is the only one registered in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming world atlas, which includes better-known city vineyards such as the 1,800 vines on the hillsides of Paris's historic Montmartre area and more than three thousand grapevines overlooking and inside the Italian city. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the forefront of a movement re-establishing city vineyards in traditional winemaking nations, but has identified them throughout the world, including urban centers in East Asia, South Asia and Central Asia.

"Grape gardens assist cities stay greener and ecologically varied. These spaces protect open space from construction by creating permanent, yielding agricultural units within urban environments," says the association's president.

Similar to other vintages, those created in urban areas are a result of the earth the vines grow in, the vagaries of the weather and the individuals who care for the grapes. "Each vintage embodies the beauty, community, environment and heritage of a city," notes the spokesperson.

Mystery Polish Grapes

Returning to the city, the grower is in a race against time to harvest the vines he cultivated from a plant abandoned in his allotment by a Eastern European household. If the rain comes, then the birds may seize their chance to attack again. "Here we have the mystery Polish variety," he says, as he removes bruised and mouldy grapes from the glistering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they're definitely hardy. Unlike noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and additional renowned French grapes – you don't have to treat them with pesticides ... this could be a unique cultivar that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."

Collective Activities Throughout Bristol

The other members of the group are additionally making the most of sunny interludes between showers of fall precipitation. On the terrace overlooking the city's shimmering waterfront, where historic trading ships once bobbed with barrels of wine from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is collecting her dark berries from approximately 50 plants. "I adore the aroma of these vines. It is so evocative," she remarks, stopping with a basket of grapes resting on her shoulder. "It's the scent of southern France when you open the vehicle windows on holiday."

Grant, 52, who has devoted more than two decades working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, unexpectedly inherited the vineyard when she moved back to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her family in 2018. She experienced an overwhelming duty to maintain the grapevines in the garden of their new home. "This plot has previously survived three different owners," she says. "I deeply appreciate the concept of environmental care – of passing this on to someone else so they keep cultivating from the soil."

Terraced Vineyards and Natural Production

A short walk away, the final two members of the group are busily laboring on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has cultivated more than one hundred fifty plants situated on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the muddy River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, gesturing towards the interwoven grape garden. "They can't believe they can see rows of vines in a city street."

Currently, the filmmaker, sixty, is picking bunches of dusty purple Rondo grapes from rows of plants slung across the cliff-side with the assistance of her daughter, Luca. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has worked on streaming service's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was motivated to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbour's grapevines. She has learned that hobbyists can make interesting, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can sell for upwards of seven pounds a glass in the growing number of wine bars specialising in minimal-intervention wines. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can actually create good, traditional vintage," she says. "It is quite on trend, but really it's reviving an old way of making vintage."

"During foot-stomping the fruit, the various natural microorganisms are released from the surfaces into the liquid," says Scofield, partially submerged in a container of tiny stems, seeds and crimson juice. "This represents how vintages were made traditionally, but commercial producers introduce preservatives to eliminate the wild yeast and then add a commercially produced yeast."

Difficult Conditions and Creative Approaches

In the immediate vicinity active senior another cultivator, who motivated his neighbor to plant her vines, has gathered his companions to harvest Chardonnay grapes from the 100 vines he has laid out neatly across two terraces. The former teacher, a northern English PE teacher who worked at Bristol University developed a passion for viticulture on regular visits to France. However it is a challenge to grow this particular variety in the dampness of the gorge, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to make French-style vintages in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," says the retiree with amusement. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and very sensitive to fungal infections."

"I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is rather ambitious"

The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the sole challenge encountered by winegrowers. Reeve has had to erect a barrier on

Sarah Dudley
Sarah Dudley

A passionate gamer and tech enthusiast, Elara shares in-depth reviews and industry insights from years of experience.